Here it is out of the chassis, mostly dusty.
There are 5 miniature tubes in this receiver. The dial string is in excellent condition so it will stay put.
A look under the hood. A few black beauties to replace not too hard to get to either.
Interesting mod done this this receiver. I am guessing the 25 MF section went bad so they cut the blue wire and added it externally. Probably would have been safer to use tape or heat shrink tubing on it rather that just let it float around bare.... The orange cap was substituted for one of the black capacitors.
All the caps are now replaced with the proper caps and heat shrink tubing applied where needed. Total time one and a half hours.
If you can not receive CW on your S38E, here is the fix. The grey pointer is on what is called a "gimmick". This one is formed when the brown heavy wire is twisted with one and a half turns of wire one end is on the IF CAN and the other is on the IF tube pin one. The brown wire snakes through the IF CAN and into a metal tie down. Remove the tie down, unsolder the short wire connecting these points and add one long enough to make 1 and a half turns around it. Keep the brown "BFO" wire in the IF CAN area and make it come as close as possible to the IF tube socket.
When you need just a couple PF of capacitance twist two wires together, for every inch or so you get a couple PF of capacitance.
This is what the brown wire "BFO" should look like on this end.
Between the next IF CAN and tube socket you will see a green wire. This one is long enough to unsolder and wrap around the heavy brown wire. Look back at the under chassis picture above and you will see that it was wrapped onto and back under the brown wire. No good, it needs to go one and a half times around your "BFO" wire ......would this be a FAUX BFO?? :) Sorry.....