Antenna switch project

I needed a new switch for my boat anchor gear. It is a chore to find each coax cable, identify it and chose between the tower antenna, or dipole. Fortunately I was in luck, my friend James had just started his project and sent me the link on an action site to get a couple for my self.

 

 It is quite the beefy switch, the spring is a little stiff but I think it will be OK.

 The box I picked out is an extruded type hard anodized aluminum. It has a sliding top or bottom depending on how you want to mount it. I chose the model with the flanged end plates. This way I can mount it on the cabinet close to where I need it. Easy to drill with a tough black finish.

                                                         40 holes later.....

The switch and all the SO-239's are in and soldered  except the end antenna feed. The solid copper came from some old coax pieces.

The SO-259 Antenna feed soldered in place, and on top the switch knob is installed.

There it is, completed top view. I'll add some identifying marks for each of the 6 switch positions. I got out the Ohm meter before I buttoned it up to make sure there was continuity between each switch position and the antenna feed input.  That is all there is to it. A couple hours planning and construction. A very solid switch that should last a long time.

Clock build final

At last I finished the clock - id timer, now named the CRON-O-MATIC.  What started out as the CHRONULATOR clock kit has evolved into a clock and 10 minute ID timer for the Ham Shack. I have to thank Mr. Boone for making a versatile kit that anyone can build, but at the same time be so easy to customize into whatever you can dream up! There is a gallery of people's projects that can be seen at his website that shows many different ideas.

Mounted Hours meter...

Mounted Minutes meter...

After cutting and drilling the front panel I started to install (and test fit) everything that was to go in it. First the meters go in.

Wiring up the front panel. 2 meters, an LED, and a toggle switch to turn on /off the ID timer.

The front panel plates were printed and etched. I used the blue etching sheets found online. I like these better that the old transparency method. 25 minutes to get a deep etch on these solid copper plates.

The finished product. The time is set, also the timer is set for a test run.

A 3/4 view of the CRON-O-MATIC.

Short movie....

Chronulator Clock Customized part 1

Well I decided that the clock was just too plain Jane for my tastes. :)  The look I am going for is old 1950-60's style analog radio gear.  I have a case and chassis for an old Globe 65A transmitter. I'll have to fabricate the front panel to match. The meters I will use are 4 1/5 "  200 DC Amp monsters.

Depending on what meters you use, you will have to figure out which resistors to change out from the originals. Fortunately Keith Brown has this webpage setup and is active in the forums.
http://www.island.net/~kdbrown/ChronulatorISource.php?calc_choice=1&configure=Configure+the+calculator



This is the case I will use.

A little rusty but it will work fine. Dark wrinkly paint should look good on this case.

Remember this guy? An ID O'matic I built a log time ago, and never found a home for. So now this clock has evolved into a clock and 10 minute ID timer! We will need a power supply now since the original clock is powered by 2 AA batteries. The ID O'matic needs up to 24 V DC to operate. ( 9 Volts works just fine)

I came up with this power supply. A quick trip to the local component store procured the necessary parts.
It will supply up to 12 V DC for the ID O'matic and 3.5 volts for the clock.. There are many schematics out there on the net, or design your own like I did.

I also had to change the 2 "Pots" out to get the little extra adjustment needed for my new meters.
Again Keith Brown to the rescue!
http://www.island.net/~kdbrown/ChronulatorISource.php?calc_choice=0&configure=Configure+the+calculator


I ended up with 500Ω "Pots".

Success!  Both meters work, there is ample room for initial adjustment and setup.

Chronulator Clock Build

This is a neat little project that I have been wanting to do for some time. Its called The Chronulator. What it is, is a clock kit that you put together. Whats so special about that you ask? Well this clock uses old analog stye meters (Simpson, Triplet etc.)
The link in case you want one too is : http://www.sharebrained.com/chronulator/
There is also a help forum if you get stuck. Expect quick reply's to questions!

I have been needing another clock for some time and thought this would be fun to do.

This is a fun easy kit to build if you use all the standard components that come with it. Everything is there except for a case of some sort. You have to use your imagination here.

A picture of the standard meters that come with the kit.

You take a template to create the look you want for the meter faces. Carefully take off the meter front and face plate. Print out your custom meter face, and glue it on. I used spray on adhesive.

This is the finished as it comes in kit form clock (minus some kind of case).

Hallicrafters S-38 E Final

The radio she is finished...

I decided to paint the cabinet since it had a few rusty spots inside and out. The grey Hammer-tone is a little darker than the original. I masked off the control panel to keep from having to re-do all the control knob lettering, and logo. Some time in the future I will get the hang of water-slide decals and do a proper job. The front glass was cleaned with denatured alcohol. I cut new rubbers for the bottom side of the glass out off out heat shrink tubing. ( gives the glass to metal a little cushion) The old ones were dry rotted. The S-38 series  radios were made between 1957- 1961.

The speaker needed serious help. It was very dry, dusty and I could see light through the cone! I did a little trick one of my Elmers showed me once. I sprayed the cone with clear enamel spray. 3 light coats and  it stiffens the cone up and makes it a little stronger.

This is the same original speaker. They make a commercial speaker cone paint (like with a brush). I like this cheaper method, fast and easy.

That's it for this old radio. I am on the lookout for a better knob set. If you really want to go first class you can buy or make your own bottom and back covers. Labels, you can get a copy of those too. Stain them with a teabag and it will look like the original labels! This radio is going to my night stand. I have an antenna already there for a short wave set.

Hallicrafters S-38E

A couple of videos showing the S-38E.

This one is AM band playing.

S-38E on 40 meters.  I decided to go ahead and paint the chassis since I have grey Hammertone paint. More to come...

Hallicrafters S38E

I picked up a nice little Hallicrafters S38E over the week end. This is one of those "it lights up but it hums" radios... I always ask what was it humming? ( I usually get a go to you know where look) :)

Here it is out of the chassis, mostly dusty.

There are 5 miniature tubes in this receiver. The dial string is in excellent condition so it will stay put.

 A look under the hood. A few black beauties to replace not too hard to get to either.

Interesting mod done this this receiver. I am guessing the 25 MF section went bad so they cut the blue wire and added it externally.  Probably would have been safer to use tape or heat shrink tubing on it rather that just let it float around bare.... The orange cap was substituted for one of the black capacitors.

All the caps are now replaced with the proper caps and heat shrink tubing applied where needed. Total time one and a half hours.

If you can not receive CW on your S38E, here is the fix. The grey pointer is on what is called a "gimmick". This one is formed when the brown heavy wire is twisted with one and a half turns of wire one end is on the IF CAN and the other is on the IF tube pin one. The brown wire snakes through the IF CAN and into a metal tie down. Remove the tie down, unsolder the short wire connecting these points and add one long enough to make 1 and a half turns around it. Keep the brown "BFO" wire in the IF CAN area and make it come as close as possible to the IF tube socket.

When you need just a couple PF of capacitance twist two wires together, for every inch or so you get a couple PF of capacitance.

This is what the brown wire "BFO" should look like on this end.

Between the next IF CAN and tube socket you will see a green wire. This one is long enough to unsolder and wrap around the heavy brown wire. Look back at the under chassis picture above  and you will see that it was wrapped onto and back under the brown wire. No good, it needs to go one and a half times around your "BFO" wire ......would this be a FAUX  BFO??    :) Sorry.....