Thursday, September 8, 2011
Heathkit HG-10B VFO
I picked up a Heathkit HG-10B VFO. I modified it to use with the Drake 2-NT. The modifications are floating around the internet if you do a search for it. Roy Vickers KF5YU's original instructions are very easy to follow. BEWARE high voltages under the hood!
Just make sure your cables wires match on each end. I used the VFO's wire, and removed the 8 pin plug. Added a male and female Molex type plug. Any four wire type plug will work. Pull the +250VDC and the 6.5VAC from the Drake 2-NT with the other half of the connector.
Tested it out today in a dummy load and it works GREAT! Saving the crystals for the Knight Kit T-60.
Labels:
amatuer radio,
ham radio,
morse code
Thursday, September 1, 2011
Arrisat 1
I caught Arrisat 1 on a nearly overhead pass this last week. I used my trusty Kenwood HT, an arrow antenna, and a small camera with a video record option. (a cell phone with video works also) Go to the Amsat web site put in your location and you can get up to the next 50 passes for your location.
This worked really well. I got an SSTV image, the voice telemetry, and the secret password in one of the 24 different language greetings.
Here is one of the certificates for sending in a report. That's all there is to it , simple easy.
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Drake 2-C
Picked up a Drake 2-C reciever to match my Drake 2 -NT transmitter. Its a little rough but I think it will be fine.
The face of the reciever is very good for its age. The copper chassis is anything but. lots of little spots all over.
A few caps of the paper variety....
Top side. This one will take a little time I am sure.
The face of the reciever is very good for its age. The copper chassis is anything but. lots of little spots all over.
A few caps of the paper variety....
Top side. This one will take a little time I am sure.
Friday, July 29, 2011
Drake 2 NT
Yes!! A Drake 2 NT CW only 80 to10 meter rig! Not a lot to recapping this one. As usual I got the multi can cap from Hayseed hamfest in Iowa, thanks again Tom! www.hayseedhamfest.com
Four caps on the bottom side.
And the multi can cap on the topside. Aren't those copper chassis cool!
Ready to go Alinement was very close, so with a crystal this baby is ready to rock.
Four caps on the bottom side.
And the multi can cap on the topside. Aren't those copper chassis cool!
Ready to go Alinement was very close, so with a crystal this baby is ready to rock.
New Dipole, traps
Well my old dipole finally broke, an 80/40 that worked well. I decided to go from scratch and build new 40 meter traps while I was at it. A ham friend of mine wanted me to build him some also, so I thought I'll just post pictures so that someone else who has never built traps could learn how. They are very easy to build.
Start out with a couple pieces of PVC 5 1/4 inches long. Mine are 1 1/4 inches in diameter and I used RG-8 for the turns. It can vary in length and diameter, and the number of turns you use will depend on this. There are many coax trap calculators online just put in your core diameter and length and it will tell you the number of turns for your target frequency.
Drill holes approximately 4 inches from the end, one on one side one on the opposite side. If you calculated you need X number and a half turn or quarter turn then drill in that place. While your at it drill 1/8 TH inch holes 3/8 in from each end. (this is what you will solder your dipole wire to)
Thread one end of your coax through the hole you drilled and leave about 8 inches hanging out the center.
Wrap the calculated amout of turns you need. On mine I calculated I need 14 FULL turns, if you need another half or a quarter turn you would drill the hole on the opposite end naturally in a different place.
Strip off the outer coax plastic coating being care full not to cut the shielding.
Now close to where you started the cut use a probe and work the coax to one side. Next pull the center conductor through at this point.
At this time mark your trap "T" on one end and "B" on the other. Both traps have to be facing the same direction once you put them in the air and it will make the next part a little less confusing.
Alright take your braid from the T end and pass it through the center to the B end. This will be soldered to the center conductor on the B end.
Now cut off excess from this connection. I use coax seal on it to keep water out. Then tuck it back inside towards the center of the trap.
Almost done. Yours should look like this, one center conductor out the "T" end and one braid (shield) from the other end "B" sticking out.
Now thread a heavy gauge wire (copper*) through the 1/8 TH inch holes you drilled close to the end. This is the "T" end so your center coax conductor will be soldered to this copper wire. Your dipole wire will also solder to this loop. The other "B" end will have a loop and the braid soldered to it and will have other end of your dipole wire soldered to that loop .
There you have it. Make sure you solder you dipole wires well, and make a good mechanical connection. This means to twist your dipole wire to the loop then solder. Also make sure you have both "T" ends pointing in the SAME DIRECTION. I put both "T" 's pointing Toward the center feed of my dipole.
I used a heath kit Grid Dip Meter to check my traps. You want them just under 40 meters, mine came out to 6.9 MHZ so I am pleased with them.
* There is always one of these right? If you use anything but copper for these hanging / soldering loops it will throw your trap WAY off. Been there done that bought the T shirt. :)
Start out with a couple pieces of PVC 5 1/4 inches long. Mine are 1 1/4 inches in diameter and I used RG-8 for the turns. It can vary in length and diameter, and the number of turns you use will depend on this. There are many coax trap calculators online just put in your core diameter and length and it will tell you the number of turns for your target frequency.
Drill holes approximately 4 inches from the end, one on one side one on the opposite side. If you calculated you need X number and a half turn or quarter turn then drill in that place. While your at it drill 1/8 TH inch holes 3/8 in from each end. (this is what you will solder your dipole wire to)
Thread one end of your coax through the hole you drilled and leave about 8 inches hanging out the center.
Wrap the calculated amout of turns you need. On mine I calculated I need 14 FULL turns, if you need another half or a quarter turn you would drill the hole on the opposite end naturally in a different place.
Strip off the outer coax plastic coating being care full not to cut the shielding.
Now close to where you started the cut use a probe and work the coax to one side. Next pull the center conductor through at this point.
At this time mark your trap "T" on one end and "B" on the other. Both traps have to be facing the same direction once you put them in the air and it will make the next part a little less confusing.
Alright take your braid from the T end and pass it through the center to the B end. This will be soldered to the center conductor on the B end.
Now cut off excess from this connection. I use coax seal on it to keep water out. Then tuck it back inside towards the center of the trap.
Almost done. Yours should look like this, one center conductor out the "T" end and one braid (shield) from the other end "B" sticking out.
Now thread a heavy gauge wire (copper*) through the 1/8 TH inch holes you drilled close to the end. This is the "T" end so your center coax conductor will be soldered to this copper wire. Your dipole wire will also solder to this loop. The other "B" end will have a loop and the braid soldered to it and will have other end of your dipole wire soldered to that loop .
There you have it. Make sure you solder you dipole wires well, and make a good mechanical connection. This means to twist your dipole wire to the loop then solder. Also make sure you have both "T" ends pointing in the SAME DIRECTION. I put both "T" 's pointing Toward the center feed of my dipole.
I used a heath kit Grid Dip Meter to check my traps. You want them just under 40 meters, mine came out to 6.9 MHZ so I am pleased with them.
* There is always one of these right? If you use anything but copper for these hanging / soldering loops it will throw your trap WAY off. Been there done that bought the T shirt. :)
Friday, July 22, 2011
Short wave loop
I like to listen to the bands at night while falling asleep. Sometimes copying code until I zonk out. A meager wire stung along the top of the bedroom was just not cutting it so I decided to make a small (It DID start out small) loop. I went to the home remodeling store and picked up some small scrap ends of 1/2 inch PVC, three "T" 's and 2 "X" 's. I cut 8 pieces 6 inches long and stuck those in the T's drilled 12 , 1/8 holes in a straight line 1/2 inch from each end. I threeded some heavy magnet wire through each side, added a 380 uF capacitor to "tune" it a little. Works like a champ. It rests on a 5.00 dollar tripod I got from the local Goodwill store!
I'll pick up some dowel rods to stiffen it up a little. It does work even if it turned out a little large.
30 inches X 30 inches!
I'll pick up some dowel rods to stiffen it up a little. It does work even if it turned out a little large.
30 inches X 30 inches!
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Knight T-60 Test
New tubes and recapped ready to test. puts out 43 watts on the Drake w-4 watt meter. Not too bad for a 6DQ6B! Scored a couple of crystals, both given to me.
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